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Jemaleddin Cole

I was a little taken aback today when I finally got to take apart and poke around at the components of the bike I bought. I was convinced that it had a freehub and cassette, but instead it’s got a freewheel. I intend to change it from 6 to 7-speed, and had thought that would be as easy as getting a new cassette, but now I need to:

• buy a 7-speed freewheel, or
• buy a new/used wheel with a freehub and 126mm rear spacing, or
• learn to rebuild one of the wheels I have to make it work

That first option seems REALLY convenient. Is there any reason not to stick with a freewheel? I’m aware that there can be uneven wear on the axle, but is there anything beyond that?

@jemal Do you have indexed shifting on this bike? If so, it won't shift correctly with a 7-speed cassette/freewheel.

@adamrice yeah, it currently has 6-speed indexed downtube shifters but I also have a set of 7-speed, as well as a Dura-Ace 7402 RD that is backwards compatible to 7-speed.

@jemal I’ve ridden thousands of miles on an old Cannondale in the last four years on its stock freewheel rear wheel. It seems fine. If you’re really into lightness and the fanciest tech it won’t suffice, but if you’re able to find a decent used wheel with a freewheel that fits I can’t imagine it will be a detriment to your enjoying your new ride.

@jemal A 7 speed freewheel is ~2mm wider than a 6 speed. Depending on your wheel/frame you might squeeze one in. If so, you would need to change your RH shifter to a 7 speed (unless you are using friction shifting). I would wonder, however, if the effort would be worth it for only one more gear? If you want a lower gear, just find a 6 speed freewheel with a lager bottom cog. To go 7 speed freehub would be a bit nicer but a new wheel (maybe reuse the rim?) and a lot of work.

@geomannie the bike was originally sold with 7-speed tri-color Ultegra, and the wheel is built for 126mm rear spacing, so that’s not a worry.

The thing is that the bike currently has a weird mix of 105 and Dura-Ace parts, and none of them look all that good and some of them are pretty banged up. Meanwhile, I have a complete set of Dura-Ace 7402 sitting around that is backwards compatible to 7-speed, and the RD, cranks and chainrings are LOVELY. I don’t really need a bigger rear cog, and the 7402 has a max of 26t that you can stretch to 28t, but not to the 32t that’s on the current freewheel.

So, you know, if I need to change the freewheel, I might as well get the most out of the change, right?

@jemal if you are talking 105 & Dura-Ace, that changes everything! For sure rebuild the wheel.

@geomannie see, that’s what I think, but also: scary!

@jemal First time building a wheel can be scary but it's quite straightforward. You just have to be methodical. I highly recommend Roger Musson's ebook which is exceptional value at £9 UK GBP, approx $11.66. For my first efforts I even built my own truing stand using the plans contained in the book. Good luck! wheelpro.co.uk/wheelbuilding/b

www.wheelpro.co.ukWheel Building and Spoke Lengths for cycle wheelsWheel Building and the Spoke Length Project. A total package for serious wheelbuilders.

@jemal
bent axle is the bigger thing.

if no bent axle?

get the freewheel, and ride-on!

plz
*do not* over think this

sure
freehubs are def 'better' fsvo

stronger, etc

but, honestly?

ain't broke?
no fix needed

@Daveography